ABC Hobbies, CESA 1882 electric boat kit (with .10 Nitro conversion) and scratch build out drive, 2-1/2lbs.

The ABS hull on this kit comes pre joined from the factory. However, you must glue in the motor mount, a mid-hull support, a transom support and the radio box. The next step was to paint the inside and outside of the boats hull because we were converting the craft to Nitro. Some modelers do it for looks.
Although this boat was originally sold and built up as an electric. We wanted a little more power and longer run times. Therefore. Nitro power was going to be our primary power source for this boat, we did decide to build Nitro conversion to still accept the stock Electric running gear just in case we ever wanted to go back to Electric. This would be a easy change over by removing the 4 bolts holding the engine mount and the set screw in the flex coupling. We choose the .10 engine for it's size, power, reliability, easy to start characteristics and compact quiet muffler. It's almost as quiet as an electric! We fabricated a engine mount from 1/8" aluminum, to be installed in the same location as the stock Electric motor mount and incorporated the throttle servo into the same mount for easy installation and removal. To switch back to Electric only requires 7 bolts. (4) on the motor mount, (1) on the flex coupler, (2) for the speed control. Then plug in the battery, plug the exhaust hole and back to electric!

.10 O.S. Max engine plumbed and installed using the fabricated engine mount. We used 1/8" 6061 Aluminum Alloy for the mount. A .15 also fits nicely and produces twice the power using the stock #871 pipe.

Once the engine was in place we used a dremel to cut a hole for the exhaust tube. Note the 45 degree angle cut on the end of the tube. This was done to avoid the water splashing up and blocking the exit.

We replaced the kits radio box lid with a well sealed clear Lexan lid. The double seal was made with silicone sealant. It's hard to see, but next to the antenna is a bump proof water switch in the clear lid. This is done so all wires stay in the water proof radio box.


The stock kit uses a fixed prop and a rudder. The prop was where you see the silver spacer before the u-joint and the rudder mounted in the same mount we used for our scratch built outdrive. The silver piece protruding from the corner of the hull is an auto-bailer to let water out of the boat while driving.

After assembly install the grafix and bolt on the wing. We put a silicone seal on the cover so we can run the boat in rough water conditions without "swamping" it.

Use the ABS stand included with the kit to keep the running gear off the dirt or cement. Note the high mounted position of the exhaust from splashing or waves.

Lean and mean, ready for action!

Price as build (Assembled and ready to run) $

Want more info? Check out these 3 links!

  1. Boat size & type guide
  2. Field Box Check List

Running Check List - coming soon
Boat Stand Designs - coming soon

See Links for places to buy boats.

Can't wait or need more info? Contact us