Layout the plans and build the boat in a good area. There are 3 sheets of instructions with this kit. The pictures on the plans are very good. However, the plans show an old driveline no longer sold. So you will have to make your own motor mount from the extra pieces of wood included in this kit.
Snap out all the die cut wood pieces and open the glue and other supplies provided with the kit. Make sure you have everything you will need before starting the build.
Trim the ABS hull with a sharp knife by scoring the plastic on the preformed trim line. Double check to make sure you are trimming in the proper place!
Continue scoring all the way around the edge with a knife. Double check to make sure you are trimming in the proper place!
Don't forget the center section and to trim out the the drivers helmets
Once it is all scored, simply fold the edge back and forth a few times and peel off the extra plastic
Now layout all the wood supports in the hull and sand them to fit perfectly in the hull, then glue into place. We like to use "thick" CA or Super glue with Zip kicker accelerator to speed the project along. Make sure you have your work area well ventilated while working with glue or paints.
Drill 1/2" holes in the 2 die cut wood pieces. Then cut the piece of aluminum tubing supplied in the kit for a scale looking exhaust out the back of the boat and glue into place. We also recommend attaching the water cooling tubing at this time. Leave the piece long enough to reach after the top is glued in place.
After the main wood structure is glued in, check the fit and location of the motor mount. In this case we fabricated one from the extra wood in the kit to clear the motor with a cooling coil installed. Wait to glue the mount into place until you have test fitted the drive to make sure the flex cable will reach the motor. Be sure to check the entire assembly, including the coupler from the motor to the flex cable for proper length.
Then cut some Styrofoam (not supplied with the kit) for the front compartment of the boats hull. This will prevent the boat from sinking.
Now test fit the drive. This will require drilling 4 small holes (about 3/32" in diameter) and cutting a small slot (about 1/4" wide) in the bottom of the hull. Cut the slot about half way between the drive and the motor. This will allow the flex cable to pass through the hull to connect the drive to the motor.
Again, be SURE to check the entire assembly, including the coupler from the motor to the flex cable for proper length. Then glue the motor mount and flex cable into place. NOTE: we have installed and adjusted the centerline of the prop to be even with the bottom surface of the boats hull. This is the proper level. Also to start, align the props thrust angle to be flat or straight with the bottom of the boat (as shown). Then make adjustments to the thrust angle as necessary.
Fit the foam in the front of the hull and secure it into place with glue or silicone. We also run a bead of silicone around the edge of this compartment to try and make it as air (and water) tight as possible. There will be no access to the front portion of the hull once the top side of the hull is installed.
This is the best time to drill the hole and mount your water pick up. We like this type best because of the excellent water pressure created. Note the location in the center about 1/2" from the back of the boats hull. We also recommend attaching the water cooling tubing at this time. Leave the piece long enough to reach after the top is glued in place (or it will be very difficult to get the tubing on the water pick up!). We also decided we would install an Auto Bailer on the opposite side of the boat (the other pontoon) at this time. We ALWAYS drill a small hole and use a dremel to open the hole up to size when installing an Auto Bailer. This will prevent the large drill from "grabbing" and chipping or distorting the hull.
Make one last check you have not forgotten anything before gluing on the top half of the hull. This will be the last time to easily access most of the compartments in the hull. We took this opportunity to install double stick velcro to hold our NiCad battery in place, just in front of the motor.
Next, test fit the top of the hull for a good fit and trim if necessary. Simply sand those areas with sand paper and recheck the fit. This will prevent you from accidentally removing too much plastic at one time. Remove the drive from the transom and glue the top half to the bottom. Be sure to fill the gap.
Now that the top half of the hull in glued into place start the final installation of the driveline. We used a set (4) of Stainless Steel socket cap bolts to mount our drive on the back of the hull. Be sure to grease the flex drive cable and "blue" lok-tite the prop on at this time. As you can see we decided to upgrade and run the metal X442 prop, this requires using the Metric to American Universal adaptor. We also installed an Auto Bailer (the silver tube shaped piece on the left side) to empty un-welcome water. The push rods that control the rudder will require drilling 2 small holes in the back of the boats hull just above the parting line. Then glue the seals into place on the back of the hull. Take the rods and cut them to the proper length and attach them to the servo and rudder. Install the receiver antenna in the hatch cover, make sure your location of the antenna does not interfere with the steering servo.
Next wire in the speed control (red item beside the motor), install the servo and other radio gear (the receiver and on board battery are in rubber radio gear bags to prevent water damage). Note the small gap between the motor and mount. his is where we space the driveline to obtain optimal length depending on the prop depth and angle. Make sure your driveline spins freely with no binding or tight spots. Grease the cable after each day of running the boat.
Next glue the driver heads together and install. At this time you can paint any portions of the boat you wish. Then you can glue the canopies in place. Next it is time to install the decals supplies with the kit or make up some of your own like we did.
Finally charge the batteries and test all the radio gear be sure left is left and right is right (when standing behind the boat). Also make sure the motor is turning in the proper direction and the speed control operates the motor in the full range from stop to full (and reverse if your ESC has it). To do this we made a boat stand from lawn sprinkler PVC pipe and fittings to safely hold and transport our boat. You are done - go have some FUN.